Cardoon velouté with black truffle carpaccio
December 22, 2009
A few weeks ago, I received samples of some of the most beautiful truffle products from Gourmet Attitude, a truffle importer founded by the dynamic and gourmet-obsessed Céline Labaune. From our very first email exchange it was clear that Céline was passionate about truffles.
I’ve often told my husband Marc that I prefer truffles to diamonds, and I do mean that literally. He would never dare to buy jewelry for me, but truffles? There’s no limit to how many he could lavish on me! So needless to say my connection to Céline was immediate.
As I opened Céline’s package and held her gorgeous little jars in my hand, I had to resist the temptation of opening them right away just to have a taste. So I set them on my desk where they remained for several weeks. I never brought them near the kitchen for fear that I wouldn’t be able to restrain myself.
Every time I sat down to work, I would stare at my little truffle jars. Before long, I realized I needed to create recipes with them that were a little out of the ordinary — recipes that would not only highlight the magnificent taste of the truffles, but also offer a new experience to the taste buds.
So when I happily stumbled upon a few bunches of cardoons at my local supermarket a few weeks ago (click here to read about this lucky find), I knew right away that my first recipe would be a cardoon velouté, adorned with Gourmet Attitude’s “black truffle carpaccio.”
Just before serving the soup I opened the precious jar. Immediately, the sublime scent of the truffles permeated the kitchen. And when we tried the first spoonful of the velouté, Marc and I fell silent and closed our eyes. The delicate taste of the cardoons was perfectly balanced with the earthy flavor of the truffles, and the smoothness of the soup was superbly contrasted by their slight crunch.
It was heaven on a spoon!
Note: To purchase the Black Truffle Carpaccio, visit GourmetAttitude.com (Disclosure: I received unsolicited free samples from Gourmet Attitude — but would not have featured them here if I didn’t think their products were outstanding.)
For instructions on how to prep and blanch cardoons, click on the link below, or here. If you cannot find cardoons in your local store or farmers’ market, don’t despair! The velouté can be made with frozen artichoke hearts and tastes very similar. See cook’s note for the instructions.
To balance the creaminess of the soup, the earthiness of the truffles and the delicate flavor of the cardoons, I needed a wine with good structure, no oak and not too much acidity or minerality. The J Vineyards Pinot Gris 2006 turned out to be all of this and so much more! The first thing that greets you is its pleasing and delicate floral aroma. At first sip, a totally different experience takes place. Beautiful notes of nectarine, pear and honey explode in the mouth, all enveloped in the most luscious texture. When sipped in between spoonfuls of the cardoon velouté, you’d think that the soup and the wine had been made for each other!
Cardoon Velouté with Black Truffle Carpaccio
serves 6 (makes 8 cups)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium Vidalia or Spanish onion – skinned, quartered and thinly sliced
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 garlic cloves – skinned and finely chopped
8 oz Yukon gold potato (1 large) – peeled and cut in 1/2” cubes
2 1/2 lbs blanched cardoons
2 1/2 cups vegetable stock
3 cups spring/filtered water
1 1/4 teaspoons sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
8 Italian parsley sprigs & 6 thyme sprigs – tied in a bundle with kitchen string
2 tablespoons crème fraîche
1/2 – 2.82 oz jar Black Truffle Carpaccio or truffle oil as garnish
1/4 cup finely chopped chives as garnish
Step 1: Heat a large heavy-bottomed soup pot at medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and onion, stir well and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, until just golden, stirring from time to time. Add the garlic and wine. Stir well and continue to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, until the wine has reduced to a syrupy sauce and has almost all evaporated. Add the potato cubes, blanched cardoons, stock, water, salt, pepper to taste and herb bundle. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover the pot and slow-simmer for 40 minutes until the cardoons are very tender. Remove the herb bundle and discard.
Step 2: Purée the soup with a stick blender or food processor until very smooth. Strain in a medium sieve and return to the soup pot and gently re-heat at medium heat. Add the crème fraîche and stir until well incorporated. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed.
Step 3: Ladle the soup into soup bowls, put a spoonful of black truffle carpaccio (or a spoonful of truffle oil) in the center, sprinkle with the chives and serve immediately.
Cook’s note: You can replace the cardoons with frozen artichoke hearts. Use two 8z packages of artichoke hearts and reduce the water to 2 1/2 cups. Make the soup and strain exactly as for the cardoon soup.
Viviane’s tip: Even after peeling the cardoons, this vegetable tends to be a bit stringy. So to make a super-smooth velouté, I like to strain the soup before serving it. Make sure to use a medium sieve (the holes are wider and more open than a fine sieve — see below). It would be very difficult and time-consuming to try using a fine sieve to strain this soup.
Pour some of the soup in a medium sieve, 2/3rds of the way.
Force the soup through the sieve with a silicone spatula.
When there is nothing left but a thick paste, discard the paste and pour another batch of soup in the sieve. Repeat until the entire soup has been strained.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Prepping and blanching cardoons
December 19, 2009
A month ago I was speeding down the vegetable aisle at my local supermarket when, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted something completely unexpected: cardoons. My cart came to a screeching halt and I turned my head so fast I almost gave myself whiplash!
To my disbelief, I was indeed looking at cardoons, neatly stacked next to the leeks. How could that be? My local supermarket is hardly a gourmet store and yet — there they were. I quickly grabbed two bunches and happily trotted home.
Perhaps you’ll think, How can anyone get excited about a cardoon? I’ll confess that I was not just excited about this find, I was elated! The last time I’d seen cardoons in their plant form (as opposed to on my plate at one of Mario Batali’s restaurants) was a few years ago in Venice, piled high in a crate on the deck of a vegetable vendor’s boat. I remember letting out a sigh, wishing I could find such exotic veggies back home.
You might be wondering, What on earth is a cardoon, anyway? A thistle-like plant, cardoons (also called cardone) grow abundantly in the Mediterranean and are usually in season from November to March. A close relative to the globe artichoke, the cardoon looks a bit like celery on steroids, growing as tall as six feet. It has thorny, silver-grey leaves and pompom-like purple blossoms. It’s not exactly a friendly-looking vegetable and it probably won’t make you salivate at first sight.
Unless, of course, you know what a treasure for the palate lies underneath that protective garb…
Just like with its cousin the artichoke, a little bit of work is needed to get the succulent part of this plant on your plate. But unlike artichokes, it’s not the blossoms we’re after, but the stalks. Their delicate artichoke-like flavor is as refined as it is addictive.
Once you’ve trimmed and peeled the stalks, it’s wise to blanch them in order to remove their sometimes considerable bitterness (see the step-by-step instructions and pictures below). I also find that adding a little lemon juice along with the salt to the blanching water brightens up the cardoons’ delicate flavor.
Cardoons lend themselves to many wonderful dishes: gratins, bagna cauda (a traditional Piedmont dish of barely blanched cardoon stalks served with a garlicky dipping sauce), fritters, stews (gently braised on their own or with other vegetables) and soups (like this cardoon velouté with black truffle carpaccio).
Whichever recipe you decide to explore, I know you’ll discover something precious, even a bit mysterious, in this magical plant.
Note: If you live in Rockland County, NY, or in Bergen County, NJ, you can purchase cardoons at the ShopRite in Northvale and at De Piero’s Farm Market. They are not always in stock but I’ve been buying cardoons at both places for the last four weeks, so hooray to that!
Prepping and Blanching Cardoon
yields 2 1/2 lbs blanched cardoons
juice of 2 lemons
1 tablespoon sea salt
3 lbs cardoons stalks
Step 1: Fill a large bowl with cold water and add half the lemon juice.
Step 2: Trim both ends of cardoon stalks and all leaves. Using a paring knife, shave the edges off each stalk (they have little spikes on them), and peel off the large protruding ribs (as you would a celery stalk). Cut each stalk crosswise in 1” pieces and immediately place in the lemon water bath.
Step 3: Fill a large bowl with cold water and several ice cubes.
Step 4: Fill a large heavy-bottom pot with water and bring to a boil. Add the balance of lemon juice and salt. Drain the cardoon pieces and add them to the boiling water. Boil for 15 to 20 minutes until just tender, but still a bit firm. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and transfer to the ice water bath until cool. Drain on kitchen towel or paper towel. Once dry, transfer to a bowl and use in your recipe of choice, or place in a sealed container and refrigerate for up to 2 days.
Fill a large bowl with cold water and add half the lemon juice.
Trim both ends of cardoon stalks.
Trim all leaves.
Watch out for the tiny spikes along each stalk — they are very prickly!
Using a paring knife, shave the edges of each stalk, making sure to remove those tiny spikes; and peel off the large protruding ribs (as you would a celery stalk).
Cut each stalk crosswise in 1” pieces…
… and immediately place in the lemon water bath.
Fill a large heavy-bottom pot with water and bring to a boil. Add the balance of lemon juice and salt.
Drain the cardoon pieces and add them to the boiling water. Boil for 15 to 20 minutes until just tender, but still a bit firm.
Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and transfer to the ice water bath until cool.
Drain on kitchen towel or paper towel.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Making vegetable stock
December 13, 2009
I’ll be the first to admit that, ever since the late 1990s, when commercial stocks made the quantum leap from those wicked, dessicated cubes to liquid packed in cartons, I have kept my pantry shelves filled with them. These newfangled “stock-boxes” might not have been as flavorful or rich as my homemade stocks, but they certainly were good enough to use in even my most delicate recipes, not to mention incredibly convenient.
What freedom! The monthly task of making four quarts of stock, with all the prepping, simmering and straining, was fortunately no longer a necessity — the more so since the appearance of those gourmet stocks on the market shelves happened to coincide with a move to New York City and the inevitable shrinking of my living quarters. (There was no room in my tiny freezer for my monthly stock production: if I wanted fresh stock, I had to make it every single time I cooked.)
So I succumbed; and even after I’d moved into a roomier kitchen, I still reached for that convenient carton every time I needed to cook with a stock.
Then one day, out of the blue, I got an incredible craving to make those four quarts of stock again. It was a deep yearning to smell the rich broth simmering on the stove and filling the house with its comforting aroma.
So I got my giant stockpot out of the pantry.
What a revelation! How could I have been so easily fooled by those fancy cartons? The flavor of my homemade stock was so deep, so rich, so nuanced… It simply could not compare to the boxed kind.
Needless to say I’m back to making my own stocks again, and feel a twinge of guilt at having abandoned my practice over those last few years. I can’t say that I’ll never buy stock in cartons again (after all, it’s hard to give up the convenience). But at least, I can confidently say that once a month the house will be filled with the earthy smells of simmering stock.
Viviane’s tips:
- The vegetables should be cut in small pieces (1/2″ to 1″ pieces) so that they render their flavor more easily.
- The stock should not simmer for more than 45 minutes. In that time the vegetables have given all their flavor to the water. Simmering them longer will only turn the vegetables into mush.
- Whenever you cook, remember to save the stems of flavorful vegetables like mushrooms, asparagus, broccoli, artichokes etc… Cut the vegetables scraps in 1″ pieces and freeze them until you are ready to make stock. There’s no need to thaw them before using them.
Vegetable Stock
makes about 4 quarts (16 cups)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large Vidalia, Spanish or red onion – skinned and cut in 1/2” cubes
4 large garlic cloves – skinned and halved
4 medium carrots – peeled and cut in 1/2” slices
2 celery ribs – trimmed and cut in 1/2” slices
1 leek (including green parts) – trimmed, halved lengthwise, thoroughly washed and cut in 1” slices
2 plum tomatoes – cut in 1” pieces
1 medium white potato – peeled and cut in 1/2” cubes
4 cups vegetable scraps cut in 1” pieces (stems of mushrooms, asparagus, chard, kale, broccoli or artichokes; corn cobs, fennel tops etc… )
2 bay leaves
1 bunch fresh Italian parsley
6 thyme sprigs
1 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
2 teaspoons whole peppercorns
5 quarts (20 cups) spring or filtered water
Step 1: Heat a large heavy-bottomed soup pot at medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and onions and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes until pale-golden. Add the garlic sauté for an additional 1 minute. Add the balance of the ingredients including the water. Stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium to medium-low, partially cover and simmer for 45 minutes.
Step 2: Strain stock through a fine sieve. Discard the vegetables and cool stock to room temperature. Refrigerate up to 2 days or freeze up to 1 month.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Raspberry-Champagne fizz
November 25, 2009
Whenever I think of New Year’s Eve, I think of Champagne… I simply adore the flavor, the bubbles and the festive feeling it conjures up. Every year I shop for a very special bottle well ahead of the festivities and then look forward to the moment, at the last stroke of midnight, when we’ll pop the cork with great joy, and — I must admit — a fair amount of noise!
So it’s not surprising that for New Year’s Eve I was inspired to create a dessert that’s all about Champagne! The idea came to me as I was contemplating the famous French cocktail, the Kir Royal (Champagne with a dash of cassis liqueur). So why not take the concept of the Kir Royal, but give it an American twist and make it an ice cream-champagne float?
The result is simply sublime. Served in a gorgeous martini glass, a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a drizzle of raspberry coulis spiked with Chambord liqueur and a splash of Champagne are transformed into a dazzling dessert — one that will invariably make heads turn and taste buds sing.
Viviane’s tip: I’m always a bit nervous when serving dessert to a large crowd. The revelation here was that I could make dozens of my Raspberry-Champagne Fizzes in minutes, letting me enjoy the festivities and celebrate with my guests instead of scurrying around the kitchen all night. Now that’s a terrific way to ring in the New Year!
Raspberry-Champagne Fizz
serves 12
For the raspberry coulis
10 oz frozen raspberries — thawed
1 teaspoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons organic sugar
2 tablespoons Chambord or Cassis liqueur
For the fizz
1 quart vanilla ice cream
3 pts fresh raspberries, as garnish
1 bottle Champagne or sparkling wine
Step 1: To make the coulis: Place the raspberries, lemon juice, sugar and liqueur in the bowl of a food processor and process at high speed until very smooth. Pass through a fine sieve and pour into a large squeeze bottle. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Cook’s note: The raspberry coulis can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Step 2: To serve: Squeeze a little raspberry coulis in a martini glass. Top with one or two scoops of vanilla ice cream, depending on the size of your glasses. Garnish with the raspberries. Top each glass with sparkling wine or Champagne at the table, it makes it more fun for your guests!
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Chocolate layer-mousse cake with cognac and bittersweet chocolate curls
November 25, 2009
I must confess that, along with Thanksgiving, Christmas dinner is my favorite meal to plan, cook and serve! Why? Because there are very few occasions during the year when I can take time off to cook such a feast for family and friends. I relish every moment of it.
And every year my challenge is to come up with a dessert that is nothing short of stunning! This year I set my sights on creating a chocolate layer cake. A courageous act for sure, since layer cakes and icings are not only totally foreign to me, but very intimidating to boot.
So I decided to start testing recipes early on in the fall. My first attempt was so disastrous that I put the monstrosity I’d created in my spare refrigerator and forgot about it for 5 days… My second attempt was definitely an improvement, but the white-chocolate icing was way too sweet for my taste and the cake itself a bit too heavy… still.
I wasn’t about to give up, though. I wanted not just any chocolate layer cake. I wanted to make the lightest, moistest, most intensely-chocolaty-cake-ever… I wanted a showstopper!
Two more attempts finally delivered the cake I had envisioned. I turned to my French background yet again. A dark chocolate génoise (sponge cake) brushed with a little coffee and Cognac makes the four layers. A milk chocolate mousse hugs the layers together and a white-chocolate mousse gently envelops the whole cake. A last tease: bittersweet chocolate curls dot the cake and add yet another layer of chocolaty flavor.
A holiday feast demands a dazzling dessert – one that tastes as delicious as it looks.
Viviane’s tip: Like all good things, this cake will take some time to bake and assemble. Fortunately, the chocolate génoise can be made one day ahead and the cake assembled 4 to 6 hours before serving. A little bit of planning will be necessary, but it’s well worth the effort… and if I can make this cake, then I would say anybody can, too!
Note: I chose Callebaut chocolates for this cake. They are outstanding baking chocolates with smooth texture and beautiful flavors. Callebaut chocolates are available in bulk at Whole Foods and gourmet food stores.
Chocolate Layer-Mousse Cake with Cognac and Bittersweet Chocolate Curls
makes 1 large cake – serves 12
For the cakes
1 1/4 cups unbleached white flour
1 cup Dutch process cocoa – sifted
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 pinch sea salt
8 large eggs – at room temperature
1 1/2 cups organic sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter – melted and slightly cooled
1 cup strong coffee – cooled to room temperature
1/3 cup Cognac
2 – 9” round non-stick cake molds – lightly buttered and floured
For the milk chocolate mousse
9 oz milk chocolate – coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon chocolate liqueur
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
For the white chocolate frosting
12 oz white chocolate – coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
2 oz bittersweet chocolate, as garnish
Preheat oven to 375°F.
Step 1: Place the flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt. Whisk until well blended.
Step 2: Place the eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer. Whisk at high speed until very pale, thick and ribbony (about 2 minutes). Slowly add the sugar and continue whisking at high speed until soft peaks form, another minute.
Step 3: Add half the flour/cocoa mixture to the whipped eggs. Fold in carefully. Add the melted butter and fold in carefully. Fold in the remaining flour/cocoa mixture, taking care not to overmix.
Step 4: Divide the batter equally into the prepared molds. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes until the cakes have risen and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cool to room temperature before un-molding.
Cook’s note: The cakes can be prepared up to 24 hours ahead. Cool to room temperature, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before assembling the cake.
Step 5: To make the milk chocolate mousse: Place the chocolate pieces in a double boiler. Melt the chocolate over simmering water, stirring constantly until smooth. Remove from heat and let cool until just warm to the touch.
Step 6: Place the heavy cream, chocolate liqueur and vanilla in the bowl of an electric mixer. Whip at medium speed until thick, taking care not to overbeat or it will turn to butter. Pour the melted milk chocolate into the whipped cream and fold until well blended. Transfer to a container, cover and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.
Step 7: To make the white chocolate frosting: Place the white chocolate pieces in a double boiler. Melt the chocolate over simmering water, stirring constantly until smooth. Remove from heat and let cool until just warm to the touch.
Step 8: Place the heavy cream in the bowl of an electric mixer. Whip at medium speed until thick, taking care not to overbeat or it will turn to butter. Pour the melted white chocolate into the whipped cream and fold until well blended. Transfer to a container, cover and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours.
Step 9: To assemble the cake: Un-mold the chocolate cakes and cut in 4 even layers, about 1″ thick (I use a cake leveler, it makes the job infinitely easier!). Place one layer of cake in the center of a serving platter. Line the rim of the platter with plastic wrap (this will keep the rim clean as you apply the frosting). Using a pastry brush, soak the cake with one quarter of the coffee and Cognac. Top with a third of the milk chocolate mousse and spread it evenly over the whole surface of the cake. Top with another layer of the chocolate cake. Repeat soaking with the coffee and Cognac, and spreading the milk chocolate mousse 2 more times until you have 3 layers. Top with the last layer of chocolate cake and soak with the remaining coffee and Cognac. Finish by applying the white chocolate frosting, first on the top, then on the sides. Save a little frosting for piping if desired: pipe a rim around the top edge. Remove the plastic wrap lining the platter and pipe the remaining frosting around the base of the cake. Loosely cover the cake with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours. Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.
Step 10: When ready to serve, shave the bittersweet chocolate using a vegetable hand peeler over the cake and around the rim of the platter.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Pumpkin crème brûlée with fresh ginger and cinnamon
November 25, 2009
Pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger. Those three words conjure up feelings of warmth, festivities and deliciousness. Take those three ingredients and make a crème brûlée with them — and you’ll have a dessert that’s just plain sublime!
Even before the first bite, the sound of the crust cracking with the back of the spoon instantly makes the mouth water in anticipation of the contrast between the crunchy-sweet caramel and the silky-smooth custard. Then each spoonful is pure heaven, best eaten as unhurriedly as one can.
I find crème brûlée to be a perfect dinner party dessert, and I have many different versions for every season of the year. But during the holidays, making them with freshly baked sugar pumpkins is an extraordinary treat. The creaminess of the pumpkin purée only accentuates the inherent smoothness of the custard. The ginger and cinnamon tantalize the taste buds and linger beautifully until you cannot resist and must take another bite.
Simple, elegant and totally scrumptious, this pumpkin crème brûlée is sure to make your holiday dinner party a memorable one.
Viviane’s tip: Contrary to what many people believe, crème brûlée is not hard to make. The custard base is simple to prepare; all you’ll need is to keep an eye on them so they don’t overbake. Crème brûlée can be prepared up to two days ahead — a huge plus when planning a holiday party. The caramel crust, however, needs to be made 15 to 30 minutes before you serve the custards. I highly recommend buying a kitchen torch. It’ll make the job infinitely easier and will yield perfect results.
Pumpkin Crème Brûlée with Fresh Ginger and Cinnamon
serves 6
3/4 cup pumpkin purée
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger root (use a microplane grater)
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
5 large egg yolks
1/3 cup organic sugar
pinch sea salt
2 tablespoons organic sugar for the caramelized crust
6 – 4oz ramequins
Preheat oven to 300°F.
Step 1: Place the pumpkin purée, ginger and cinnamon in a medium bowl. Whisk until well blended. Set aside.
Step 2: Heat the cream and milk in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. When the liquid has reached boiling point remove from heat and set aside.
Step 3: In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip the egg yolks, sugar and salt at high speed, until the mixture is very pale and ribbony, about 2 minutes. Reduce to low speed and slowly whisk the hot cream into the egg yolk mixture. Add the pumpkin purée and whisk until well blended. Skim the air bubbles off the top with a mesh spatula.
Step 4: Pour the custard into the molds, filling them 1/4” from rim. Place the ramequins in a large baking pan and pour enough hot water in the pan to reach about 1/2″ up the side of the ramequins. Cover pan with aluminum foil and bake for 20 to 25 minutes. The custards should be barely set and wobble when gently shaken. Do not overcook or the crème brûlée will curdle (it would look like scrambled eggs… and if this should happen, unfortunately you’ll have to make a new batch!). Carefully remove the pan from the oven, transfer custards to a cooling rack and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate the custards for at least 4 hours.
Cook’s note: The custards can be prepared up to this point and refrigerated for up to 2 days.
Step 5: Sprinkle each custard with a little sugar. Hold a lit kitchen torch 4 inches from the sugar topping and move the flame evenly over the surface until a caramel crust has formed. Return to the refrigerator for 15 to 30 minutes before serving. (If the caramel crust is refrigerated for too long, it becomes soggy and loses its crunch!)
Cook’s note: For the recipe to make fresh pumpkin purée, click here.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Making herb-infused honeys
November 23, 2009
Making cookies, jams, infused honeys or sauces for gift-giving has always been part of my life, but never more so than in 2008 when the downturn in the economy made so many of us re-think what gift-giving really means.
So last year, all my gifts (with very few exceptions) were prepared in my kitchen. It took several days to make all the goodies and package them beautifully, but the result was that long past the holidays, friends and family members would call me to thank me for the gifts they were still enjoying.
This made such an impression on me that I’ve committed to do the same every holiday. It’s not a small commitment — making gifts from your kitchen takes time! — but with a little creativity and planning I find that it’s not only doable, it’s downright enjoyable!
This year, two special treats are on the list: Sienese almond cookies, and honey infused with fresh herbs and spices. Both are easy to make… and incredibly delicious. Both also look absolutely gorgeous, and will be sure to impress your family and friends.
Gifts from your kitchen and your heart – now that’s what the holidays are all about.
Viviane’s tip: I love to use my homegrown herbs to make these honeys, but not everyone has a herb garden. Fortunately, fresh herbs are available in any supermarket. The fresher the herb, the more flavor it will impart to the honey. As for the honey itself, I recommend buying a good-quality local honey for the infusions. The flavor is unsurpassed!
Herb-Infused Honeys
4oz bottles or jars – washed and thoroughly dried
1/2 cup (4oz) good quality orange blossom or clover honey per bottle/jar
Cook’s note: For larger bottles/jars, multiply the amount of honey and herbs needed equally.
Single herb infusions – all measurements are for a 4oz bottle/jar
1 sprig basil (sprig with small leaves are easier to fit in the bottle/jar))
1 tablespoon shaved fresh ginger (use vegetable hand-peeler)
1 tablespoon dried lavender blossoms
2 sprigs lemon balm
1 sprig mint
1 sprig oregano
1 sprig rosemary
2 sprigs summer or winter savory
1 sprig sweet marjoram
1 sprig French tarragon
4 sprigs thyme
4 sprigs lemon thyme
Herb & spice infusions – all measurements are for a 4oz bottle/jar
2 teaspoons anise seeds
1 small sprig basil & 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 small sprig basil & 1 teaspoon anise seeds
2 teaspoons cardamom pods
1 stick cinnamon & 1 sprig sage
1 sprig rosemary & 1 strip orange zest (use vegetable hand-peeler)
4 sprigs fresh thyme & 1 strip lemon zest (use vegetable hand-peeler)
Step 1: Place herb (and/or spice) in bottle/jar.
Step 2: Place honey in a saucepan and heat over medium heat until the honey becomes liquidy or until candy thermometer reaches 180ºF, making sure the honey doesn’t come to a boil.
Step 3: Using a funnel, pour the hot honey into each bottle/jar, making sure the herbs are submerged. Place honey bottles on a cooling rack and cool to room temperature. Once cooled, close bottle/jar tightly and store in a cool dark place for 1 week before using.
Cook’s note: Store the infused honey in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Cauliflower gratin with nutmeg
November 17, 2009
Come November, I eagerly hunt for cauliflowers at my farmers’ market — precious and wondrous gifts from Mother Earth.
The cauliflowers grown by local farmers are not the oversized, Popeye-like grocery store variety. They are usually small in size, delicate and crispy. They come in all kinds of different colors (snow-white, orange, purple, lime-green), and shapes (the Romanesque cauliflower pictured above, with its pointy florets, always attracts lots of attention from shoppers!).
Whether they are roasted, sautéed, fried, gently boiled in milk for a luxurious purée, or braised, cauliflowers are utterly delicious. I can honestly say that I look forward to the season all year-long!
Today’s gratin is a classic French recipe, but instead of just blanching the cauliflower (as it is normally prepared), I decided to braise it in shallots and wine until perfectly tender — a step that adds a wonderful dimension to the dish and deepens the subtle flavor of the cauliflower. Once braised, I top the tender florets with a light béchamel sauce made with lots of freshly grated nutmeg. Then I sprinkle the whole thing with a little cave-aged gruyère, pop it in the oven and bake it until golden-brown and bubbly.
Needless to say, resistance is futile!
For a bit of fun, you can watch every step of this recipe in this video: Take a peek…
Cauliflower gratin with nutmeg
serves 4 to 6
For the cauliflower
1 large cauliflower (about 2 1/2 lbs) – florets trimmed from stalk and cut in 2” pieces
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
3 large shallots – peeled, halved and finely sliced
4 large garlic cloves – skinned and finely chopped
3/4 cup white wine
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the béchamel
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup unbleached white flour
2 1/2 cups milk
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
freshly ground nutmeg to taste (use microplane grater)
4 oz cave-aged gruyère – coarsely grated
1 medium oval or rectangular ceramic or glass baking dish; or 6–1/2 cup capacity ramequins – lightly buttered
Preheat oven to 425°F.
Step 1: Heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, red pepper flakes and shallots and sauté for 2 minutes until the shallots start to soften but not brown. Add the cauliflower and garlic, toss well and sauté for 2 additional minutes until warmed through, tossing only a couple of times. Add the wine and toss well. Then add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, toss again. Reduce heat to medium-low and cover pan. Braise cauliflower for 8 to 10 minutes until tender. Uncover pan and sauté at high heat for 1 to 2 minutes until all juices have evaporated. Transfer to the prepared baking dish.
Step 2: In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly for 1 to 2 minutes until the mixture becomes foamy and the flour becomes golden, but not brown. Quickly add the milk and whisk constantly until the mixture is well blended. When the mixture starts bubbling, lower heat and slow-simmer for 6 to 8 minutes until the béchamel has thickened. Add the salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix well and remove from heat.
Step 3: Pour the béchamel over the cauliflower and sprinkle with the cheese. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until top is golden-brown. Remove from oven and let cool for 10 minutes before serving.
Cook’s note: The gratin can be baked, cooled and refrigerated up to 1 day or frozen up to 3 weeks. To serve, bring to room temperature and bake at 425°F for 8 to 10 minutes until hot.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
A vegetarian Thanksgiving feast: 5-course seasonal menu with wine pairing and game plan!
November 11, 2009
As a junior in college and a new immigrant to this country, I was quick to adopt Thanksgiving as my favorite holiday.
We Americans may have inherited this ritual of giving thanks from the Pilgrims, but throughout history people of all nations have celebrated harvest time with a feast.
Now that’s where I get very excited about this special holiday. Cooking being my passion, having the chance to make a feast is something I anticipate with great joy each year.
When planning my own Thanksgiving menu, I follow the original spirit of this special holiday and let the abundance of the harvest itself guide me. Since I do most of my shopping at our local farmers’ markets from spring through fall, I’m familiar with the gorgeous produce they offer and the succession of crops.
Even at the end of November, there’s still a marvelous assortment of fresh veggies and fruits to choose from: Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, gorgeous red beets, leafy greens, pumpkins and winter squashes, apples and pears… the list goes on and on, and out of it my menu takes shape beautifully.
From the first bite of the spicy beet-green crostini and the first sip of the sumptuous pear Bellini to the last morsel of dessert, the mood for this feast is set. May it inspire you to create a Thanksgiving feast that is as delicious as it is joyful — in the true spirit of giving thanks!
Menu
Featuring wines from Bonny Doon Vineyard
Spicy beet-green crostini
Endive boats with fresh ricotta and roasted beets
Marinated olives with fennel
Roasted cashews with curry spices (from Tierra Farm — shown with the Bellini)
Pear Bellini
Pumpkin soup with citrus-mint pesto
Baby spinach salad with dried cranberries, feta and maple-glazed pecans
Pan-roasted shallot vinaigrette
Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Blanc 2007
Individual gratins with shiitake mushrooms and Yukon gold potatoes
Roasted butternut squash with garlic and sage Maple-glazed
Brussels sprouts with chestnuts
Cauliflower purée
Cranberry chutney with figs
Bonny Doon, Syrah “Le Pousseur” 2005
Apple-pear crisps with macadamia crumb
Calvados Chantilly
Bonny Doon, Le Vol des Anges 2007
Game Plan
1 WEEK AHEAD
Buy wines
3 to 4 DAYS AHEAD
Buy vegetables and groceries (I like to buy the veggies as close to the time I need them as possible. The longer they sit in the refrigerator, the more they lose both nutrition and flavor!)
Wash beet greens, spin dry, place in large Ziplock bag — refrigerate
Wash spinach, spin dry, place in large Ziplock bag — refrigerate
Cut baguette in slices for the crostini — freeze
2 DAYS AHEAD
Roast the beets — refrigerate
Make soup and pesto — refrigerate
Make the marinated olives — refrigerate
1 DAY AHEAD
Set table and prep house
Make maple-glazed pecans — place in Tupperware and store at room temperature
Blanch Brussels sprouts — refrigerate
Make cranberry chutney — refrigerate
Make Calvados chantilly — refrigerate
Cut butternut squash, place in large Ziplock bag — refrigerate
THANKSGIVING MORNING
Make apple-pear crisp
Make gratins
Roast Butternut squash
Make cauliflower purée
Prep the beets for the endive boats
Slice the beet greens and garlic for the crostini
Slice the shallots for the spinach salad
Prep the ingredients for the Brussels sprouts
30 MINUTES BEFORE GUESTS ARRIVE
Take out the olives, soup and chutney from the refrigerator
Assemble the endive boats
WHEN GUESTS ARRIVE
Serve Bellini, olives, curried cashews and endive boats
Toast the baguette slices, sauté the beet greens and assemble crostini — serve warm
WHEN READY TO SERVE DINNER
Re-heat soup and serve
Make pan-roasted shallot vinaigrette
Assemble salad and serve
Re-heat gratins and butternut squash at 375ºF for 6 to 8 minutes
Re-heat cauliflower purée
Sauté Brussels sprouts
Plate main course and serve
Re-heat dessert and serve

Spicy Beet–Green Crostini
makes 16 crostini
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red, chili pepper flakes to taste
2 large garlic cloves – skinned and finely chopped
1 lb beet greens (or Swiss chard) – trimmed, thoroughly rinsed, spun dry and cut in 1/4” strips
1/2 teaspoon sea salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
16 baguettes slices – cut on the diagonal in 1/4″ thick slices
extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
Step 1: Heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat. Add the oil, red pepper flakes and garlic. Sauté for 1 minute only. Add the beet greens and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes until all the juices have evaporated and greens turn dark green, tossing from time to time. Add the salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Toss well and remove from heat.
Step 2: Preheat the broiler. Toast the bread under the broiler on each side until golden and crispy. Top each bread slice with a small mound of beet greens and drizzle with a little olive oil. Set on a platter and serve warm.

Endive Boats with Fresh Ricotta and Roasted Beets
makes 24 boats
For the beets
4 medium red beetroots (about 1 bunch) – washed, ends trimmed and unpeeled
1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh chives
1/4 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the endive boats
3 large Belgian endives – trimmed and leaves pulled from core (about 24 large leaves)
12 oz fresh handmade ricotta
sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
chive tips as garnish
Step 1: Preheat oven to 450°F. Place the beets in a small roasting pan. Fill pan with 1/2″ of spring water. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 60 to 70 minutes until beets are tender. Transfer to a bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature.
Cook’s note: The beets can be prepared up to 3 days ahead. Place in a Tupperware and refrigerate until ready to use.
Step 2: In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, chives, salt and pepper until well blended. Set aside.
Step 3: Peel the beets by slipping the skins off with the back of a knife. Cut the beets in 1/8” cubes. Add the dressing, toss well and let stand at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes.
Step 4: Just before serving, place a spoonful of the ricotta in the bottom half of each endive leaf. Top with the beet cubes. Garnish with a chive tip and serve.
Cook’s note: The boats can be assembled up to 30 minutes ahead and kept at room temperature. Do not prepare too far ahead of time as the endives will wilt.

Marinated Olives with Fennel
makes 2 cups
1/2 small fennel bulb
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fennel greens
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 strips lemon zest – (use vegetable hand-peeler) and cut in 1/16” julienne strips
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 1/4 lb mixed olives
Step 1: Trim and cut fennel bulb in half. Using a vegetable hand-peeler, shave 12 strips from the bulb and put in a large bowl. Place the balance of ingredients in the same bowl. Mix well and transfer to a Tupperware.
Step 2: Let marinate at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.
Cook’s note: Refrigerate up to 1 month. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Pear Bellini
serves 8
1 ripe red pear – cut in 1/4” slices as garnish
6 oz unsweetened pure pear juice
1 1/2 oz Grappa or Poire William
1 bottle Champagne or sparkling wine
Place one pear slice in each chilled Champagne flutes. Shake pear juice and Grappa with large ice cubes. Divide into the eight champagne flutes. Top with Champagne and serve immediately.

Pumpkin Soup with Citrus-Mint Pesto
serves 8
For the soup
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium Vidalia or Spanish onion – peeled, quartered and cut crosswise in 1/8” slices
1 cup dry white wine
2 garlic cloves – skinned and finely chopped
1 1/4 teaspoons sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 medium pumpkin (about 3 lbs) – peeled (use vegetable hand-peeler), seeded and cut in 1″ chunks
2 1/2 cups vegetable broth in cartons
2 1/2 to 3 cups spring water
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
For the citrus-mint pesto
1 small bunch Italian parsley (about 1 1/2 oz) – tough stems removed
8 sprigs fresh mint – leaves removed from stems
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds – coarsely ground with mortar and pestle
1/4 teaspoon orange zest (use microplane grater)
2 tablespoons pine nuts
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Step 1: Heat a large heavy-bottomed soup pot at medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and onions and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes until golden, stirring from time to time. Add the garlic and wine. Stir well and continue to sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, until the wine has evaporated and glazed the onions. Add the pumpkin chunks, the vegetable broth, 2 1/2 cups of water, salt and pepper to taste. Bring the soup to a boil and then simmer covered for 30 to 35 minutes, until the pumpkin pieces are very tender.
Step 2: Add the orange juice and purée the soup with a stick blender or food processor, until smooth. Thin the soup with water to the desired consistency. Adjust the seasoning if needed. Remove from heat and set aside.
Step 3: While the soup is simmering, make the pesto. Place all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and process until very smooth, for 1 to 2 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.
Step 4: Ladle the soup into soup bowls. Place a spoonful of the pesto in the center of each bowl and serve immediately.
Cook’s note: The soup can be made up to 3 days ahead and re-heated just before serving. It may need to be thinned with additional spring water, as the pumpkin will absorb the liquids as it stands. Freezes well up to 1 month.

Baby Spinach Salad with Dried Cranberries, Feta and Maple-Glazed Pecans
serves 8
For the maple-glazed pecans
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon maple syrup
2/3 cups pecan halves
sea salt to taste
For the vinaigrette
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 large shallots – skinned, quartered and finely sliced
2 1/2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground pepper to taste
For the salad
8 oz baby spinach – rinsed and spun dry
1/2 cup dried cranberries
4 oz French feta or sheep’s milk feta – crumbled
freshly ground pepper to taste
Step 1: For the maple-glazed pecans, heat a small frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, maple syrup and pecans. Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently until the pecans are golden and the maple syrup has darkened. Spread the pecans on a cooling rack so the pan juices can drip down and sprinkle with salt. Once cooled place in a Tupperware until ready to use.
Cook’s note: The pecans can be made up to 3 days ahead and stored room temperature.
Step 2: Place the spinach in a large bowl and set aside.
Step 3: To make the vinaigrette, heat a small frying pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the shallots. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes until the shallots are light golden. Quickly add the balsamic, balance of the olive oil, salt and pepper. Stir well and remove from heat.
Step 4: Pour the warm vinaigrette over the baby spinach. Toss well and divide equally in the center of eight salad bowls or plates (alternatively place in a large serving platter). Top with a few cranberries and a little crumbled feta. Garnish with the pecans. Finish with freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.

Individual Gratins with Shiitake Mushrooms and Yukon Gold Potatoes
serves 8
For the mushrooms
12 sprigs fresh Italian parsley – stems removed
8 thyme sprigs – leaves removes from stems
2 sprigs winter savory or rosemary – leaves removes from stems
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 lbs fresh shiitake mushrooms – stems trimmed and cut in 1/8” slices
2 large shallots – skinned, quartered and finely sliced
2 large garlic cloves – skinned and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
fresh ground pepper to taste
For the gratins
1 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon sea salt to taste
fresh ground pepper to taste
1 lb medium Yukon gold potatoes – cut in 1/16” slices (use mandoline or blade attachment of food processor)
4 oz coarsely grated cave–aged gruyere (about 1 cup)
8–1/2 cup capacity ramequins – lightly buttered
Step 1: Place the herbs on a cutting board and finely chop. Set aside.
Step 2: Heat a large non-stick skillet to high heat. Add the butter and oil. As soon as the butter is melted, add the mushrooms. Toss well and sauté for 4 to 6 minutes until golden, stirring only occasionally. Add the shallots and continue to sauté for 1 to 2 minutes until shallots have softened. Add garlic, herbs, salt and pepper and continue to sauté for 30 seconds. Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl to cool slightly.
Step 3: Pre-heat oven to 375°F. Whisk the cream, milk, salt and pepper in a small bowl and set aside. Place a third of the potato slices at the bottom of each ramequins, just to cover the surface. Top with half the mushrooms. Then top with a third of the potato slices. Top again with half the mushrooms and finish with the balance of the potato slices. Drizzle with the milk mixture. Sprinkle with the grated cheese. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes until golden and bubbly. Remove from oven and let cool for 5 minutes before serving. Serve the gratins in their molds.
Cook’s note: The gratins can be baked, cooled and refrigerated up to 1 day, although they are best eaten the day they are made. To serve, bring to room temperature and bake at 375°F for 6 to 8 minutes until hot.

Roasted Butternut Squash with Garlic and Sage
serves 8
2 medium butternut squash (about 4 lbs) – peeled (use vegetable hand peeler), seeded scooped out and cut in 1/2” x 3” slices
2 small bunches fresh sage – leaves removed from stems
16 large garlic cloves – unpeeled and left whole
1 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Preheat oven to 475ºF.
Step 1: Place the butternut squash slices in a non-stick jellyroll pan large enough to hold the ingredients in a single layer (alternatively use 2 pans). Add the sage, garlic, salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle with the olive oil and toss well. Arrange slices in a singe layer and bake for 20 minutes.
Step 2: Remove from oven, carefully flip each slice so as not to break them. Return to oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until golden-brown. Remove garlic cloves and save for another use. Serve the roasted squash with the sage leaves.
Cook’s note: The squash can be sliced up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerated in Ziplock bags. Bake up to 6 hours ahead and re-heat at 475ºF for 5 to 6 minutes until hot.

Maple–Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts
serves 8
1 tablespoon sea salt for the blanching water
2 lbs Brussels Sprouts – ends trimmed and cut in half
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons maple syrup
6 oz roasted chestnuts in jars – broken in 1/2” pieces (use your fingers)
3 large shallots – skinned, quartered and finely sliced
3/4 to 1 teaspoon sea salt to taste
freshly ground pepper to taste
Step 1: Fill a large bowl with cold water and several ice cubes.
Step 2: Fill a medium pot with water and bring to a boil. Add the salt and blanch the Brussels sprouts for 4 minutes until tender. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and transfer to the ice water bath until cool. Drain on paper towels. Once dry, transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Cook’s note: The Brussels sprouts can be blanched up to 1 day ahead. Place in a Tupperware and refrigerate until ready to use.
Step 3: Heat a large heavy-bottom skillet over high heat. Add the butter, olive oil and maple syrup. As soon as the butter is melted, add the Brussels sprouts and chestnuts and toss. Sauté for 4 to 5 minutes until golden-brown, tossing only occasionally. Add the shallots, toss again and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes until shallots have softened. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, remove from heat and serve immediately.

Cauliflower Purée
serves 8
4 cups milk
1 1/2 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
1 large bunch fresh thyme – tied in a bundle with kitchen string
2 medium cauliflower (about 4 lbs) – florets torn in 2” pieces
freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup freshly grated Reggiano or Grana Padano parmesan
Step 1: Bring milk to a boil in a large soup pot. Add half the salt, herb bundle and cauliflower and boil partially covered (or the milk will foam-up) for 12 to 15 minutes until cauliflower is very tender. Strain in a colander, reserve the milk and let stand for 5 minutes until well drained. Discard herb bundle.
Step 2: Place the cauliflower florets in the bowl of a food processor and process with a steel blade until coarsely chopped. Add the balance of the salt, black pepper, parmesan and 1/4 cup of the reserve milk (or a little more) to the desired consistency. Process for another 30 seconds until very smooth. Transfer to a bowl and keep at room temperature until ready to use.
Cook’s note: The purée can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead. Once cooled, cover and keep at room temperature.
Step 3: When ready to serve, heat the purée in a saucepan over medium heat until very warm, stirring frequently and adding a bit of the reserved milk if needed. Serve immediately.

Cranberry Chutney with Figs
makes 2 cups
For the figs
4 oz dried California or Turkish figs (about 1/2 cup) – cut in 1/4” pieces
2 tablespoons Cointreau
2 tablespoons orange juice
For the chutney
1 1/4 cup apple or grape juice
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup organic sugar
2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger (use microplane grater)
1/2 teaspoon orange zest (use microplane grater)
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/8 teaspoon red, chili pepper flakes
pinch sea salt
12 oz fresh cranberries
Step 1: Place the figs, Cointreau and orange juice in a small bowl. Mix well and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.
Step 2: Meanwhile, heat a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat. Add the apple juice, lemon juice, sugar, cinnamon sticks, ginger, orange zest, cardamom, red pepper flakes, and salt. Bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce heat to medium-high and add the cranberries. Stir well and fast simmer for 6 to 7 minutes until the cranberries start to pop. With a wooden spoon, crush the cranberries on the side of the pot until mixture is chunky. Turn off the heat, add the fig mixture and stir. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes. Transfer to a bowl to cool to room temperature and serve.
Cook’s note: Refrigerate up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Apple-Pear Crisp with Macadamia Crumb – Calvados Chantilly
serves 8
For the crumb topping
1 cup unbleached white flour
1/3 cup turbinado sugar
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
8 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 stick) – cold
2/3 cup roasted, unsalted macadamia nuts
For the fruits
6 medium Braeburn or Gala apples – peeled, cored and cut in 1/4” slices
4 ripe bartlet pears – peeled, cored and cut in 1/2” pieces
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest (use microplane grater)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon Calvados or apple brandy
1/3 cup organic sugar
For the Calvados Chantilly
1 cup heavy cream – well chilled
2 tablespoons Calvados
2 tablespoons organic sugar
1 – 13×10x3” ceramic baking dish – lightly butteredPreheat the oven to 375°F.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Step 1: In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar and salt. Process at high speed for 15 seconds until well blended. Add the chunks of butter and macadamia and process until coarse crumbs form. Do not over-process or the crumbs will come together and form a dough. Let stand until ready to use.
Step 2: Place the apple and pear slices in a large bowl and sprinkle with the lemon zest, lemon juice, calvados and sugar. Toss well.
Step 3: Place the apple-pear mixture into the prepared mold. Sprinkle with the crisp topping. Bake for 50 to 55 minute, until topping is golden brown and the fruits are bubbly. Remove from the oven and let cool until warm.
Step 4: In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip the heavy cream, Calvados and sugar and medium speed until the cream begins to thicken. Do not overbeat or the cream may turn to butter. Transfer to a Tupperware and refrigerate until ready to use.
Cook’s note: Refrigerate the Chantilly up to 1 day.
Step 5: To serve, spoon into desert bowl. Top with a dollop of the Calvados Chantilly and serve immediately.
Cook’s note: The crisp can be made up to 6 hours ahead and kept at room temperature. Re-heat at 375°F for 5 to 7 minutes until just warm and serve as above. The crisp is best consumed the day it is made.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Quinoa with piquillo peppers, cured olives and frisée
November 6, 2009
The first time I tasted quinoa was in the mid-1980’s. I’d just moved to Vermont and was discovering all kinds of new foods. It was a thrill.
I remember eagerly looking for recipes for it, but in those pre-Google times, the only thing I had to go on was the directions on the package.
So I started experimenting on my own. Before long, quinoa was a favorite in our household; it was on the menu at least once a week, in one form or another.
For me, the most seductive thing about quinoa is its texture — it is so refined! And although I often serve it in place of rice, I also love creating more sophisticated recipes for it.
That’s how I came up with today’s dish. I wanted to make an elegant appetizer, something I could serve at dinner parties — something that would highlight this little seed’s delicate shape and subtle flavor.
The best part, though, is that this recipe is extremely versatile. With a little attention to detail, it is indeed transformed into the stylish appetizer I had envisioned. And with a little nonchalance it becomes a super-easy salad served family style.
Either way, one thing’s for sure: this dish is just plain delicious!
Note: Piquillo peppers are little Spanish red peppers that have been fire-roasted, hand-peeled and jarred. They are very sweet and flavorful. I chose them for this recipe because they are as delicate as the quinoa itself! You can find Piquillo peppers in gourmet food stores such as Whole Foods, or online at La Tienda.

Quinoa with Piquillo Peppers, Cured Olives and Frisée
Balsamic–Shallot Vinaigrette
serves 4
For the vinaigrette
1 1/2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small shallot – skinned and finely chopped
1 small garlic clove – skinned and crushed (see Viviane’s tip below)
1/8 teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper to taste
For the salad
1 recipe Quinoa (click on link for recipe)
1 – 8oz jar Piquillo peppers (or roasted red peppers) – cut in 1/4” strips
1/4 cup pitted cured olives – very finely chopped
1 handful frisée leaves – torn in 1” pieces
1 tablespoon pine nuts
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 – 1/2 cup capacity ramequin
Step 1: To make the vinaigrette — place all ingredients in a small bowl. Whisk until well blended and set aside.
Step 2: Toss the quinoa with 2/3rds of the vinaigrette and mix well. Spoon the quinoa mixture into the ramequin and press with the back of a spoon to pack it tightly. Invert ramequin in the center of a plate and gently lift it off. It will create a small mound. Top with the Piquillo pepper slices and then a dollop of the chopped olives. Garnish with a few frisée leaves and some pine nuts. Drizzle with the balance of the vinaigrette and finish with freshly ground pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
Cook’s note: To serve the quinoa family style, toss the quinoa with 2/3rds of the vinaigrette and mix well. Place quinoa in a serving bowl. Top with the peppers. Sprinkle with the chopped olives. Garnish with the frisée and pine nuts. Drizzle with the balance of the vinaigrette and a little black pepper and serve.
Viviane’s Tip — Crushing garlic using a microplane grater

I like to use a microplane grater to crush garlic. It’s easy and there’s no mess to clean! Just quickly rub the garlic clove back and forth on the blade…

… and in seconds you have a perfectly crushed clove!
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
How to cook quinoa
November 5, 2009

Until the Spanish conquistadors destroyed the quinoa fields of South America in the 1500s, this little seed had nourished the Incas for thousands of years. It was the chisaya mama, “the mother grain”, the sacred food, gold of the Incas. Sadly, quinoa fell into oblivion, almost forgotten even by the people it had fed for so many thousands of years.
It’s not until the 1980s that quinoa re-emerged and was introduced to the American consumer. In less than 30 years, it has become a favorite food — not because it’s a “super food,” as scientists have discovered, but because it simply tastes good.
And what a super food it is! A complete protein with an abundance of Lysine, quinoa is also packed with essential minerals such as manganese, magnesium, iron, copper and phosphorous. No wonder this little seed was thought to have given the Inca warriors their incredible stamina. I say “seed,” because although we refer to quinoa as a grain, technically it’s the seed of chenopodium (a pseudocereal), a plant related to beets, chard and spinach. In fact, the leafy foliage of chenopodium quinoa is also edible.
For me, though, I don’t need statistics or a degree in botany to be convinced that quinoa is a great food! I just adore its flavor. Cooked the proper way, this tiny, “lady-like” seed is delicate, fluffy and slightly nutty. Once you’ve had a taste of it, you’re hooked.
But before you start cooking your batch of quinoa, there’s a small detail you need to know. The quinoa seed is naturally coated with a bitter substance called saponin. Surely the quinoa plant evolved this way to make its treasure unpalatable to birds and other foragers. Aside from being quite bitter, saponin can be mildly toxic. Therefore commercial quinoa sold in the US has been pre-washed to remove the unpleasant saponin. But I find that it’s not a bad idea to rinse the seeds again before cooking them (see the pictures and instructions below).
If quinoa hasn’t found its way into your kitchen or your heart yet, I hope this little article will convince you to give this noble food a try — I know it’ll have you coming back for more!
Quinoa
serves 4
1 cup quinoa
1 1/2 cups spring water (or filtered water)
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove – skinned
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
Step 1: Place quinoa in a fine sieve and rinse in cold water, rubbing the seeds between your fingers. Strain and discard water. Repeat this process using fresh water two more times. The water will be cloudy at first and then become clearer. After rinsing the quinoa 3 times, strain and shake excess water vigorously. Set aside.
Step 2: Place spring water in a medium heavy-bottomed pot and bring to a boil. Add quinoa, garlic, olive oil and salt. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and slow-simmer for 15 minutes until tender and the water as been absorbed.
Step 3: Turn off the heat. Remove garlic and discard. Stir well, cover and let stand for another 15 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and serve.
Cook’s note: The quinoa can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Cool to room temperature, place in a container with lid and refrigerate.

Place quinoa in a fine sieve and rinse in cold water, rubbing the seeds between your fingers. Strain and discard water. Repeat this process using fresh water two more times. The water will be cloudy at first and then become clearer.

After rinsing the quinoa 3 times, strain and shake excess water vigorously. Set aside.

Place spring water in a medium heavy-bottomed pot and bring to a boil. Add quinoa, garlic, olive oil and salt.

Stir well.

Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and slow-simmer for 15 minutes until tender and the water as been absorbed.

Turn off the heat. Remove garlic clove and discard.

Stir well.

Cover and let stand for another 15 minutes.

After 15 minutes, the quinoa is light and fluffy and ready to eat!
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC
Bon Appétit Bake-Off! Butternut squash-Cointreau tart with rosemary gelato and cranberry compote
October 30, 2009

When Emily Fleischaker, Associate Multimedia Editor of Bon Appétit, contacted me just a few days ago to ask me to participate in the Bon Appétit Blog Envy Bake-Off, I was thrilled! To be featured on this venerable food magazine’s website — and to have the opportunity to compete with some of America’s top food blogs for best holiday dessert — is a delicious honor indeed.
Immediately, my creative juices started flowing — I wanted to create a dessert that was seasonal and a little bit French. But I also wanted my recipe to be inspired by classic American holiday desserts. That’s when the humble and beloved pumpkin pie came to mind… I thought it would be fun to revamp it and give it a modern twist.
It didn’t take long for me to conceive of today’s dessert. Butternut squash is a close relative to the sugar pumpkin, and its delicate flavor and creamy texture make for the most delicious pie filling. So why not make it into an elegant tart? The rest just fell right into place. The Cointreau highlights the butternut squash’s inherent citrus notes and the buttery pine nut dough makes every bite of this tart melt in your mouth!
And what would a holiday meal be without colorful cranberries? That’s how the cranberry compote found its way in. And it’s perfect, really… just two ingredients: cranberry and sugar, gently simmered into a compote — the little bit of tartness that makes every element come together.
As for the rosemary gelato, it refreshes the palate with every spoonful. Then, as a last indulgence, the dessert is drizzled with a little orange blossom honey syrup.
Needless to say I’ll be serving this dessert for my holiday dinner… and I hope you will too!
December, 20 2009: I am happy to report that my dessert was one of the five finalists and won best “Pies & Tarts”. Thank you all for your votes! Your support has meant more to me than I could ever say…
PS: Scroll down for the step-by-step instructions for the food processor tart dough. I developed this recipe over twenty years ago and have made it countless times! It’s truly foolproof… and I hope the pictures make the whole thing look simple enough that you’ll feel confident about making it on your own.

Butternut Squash-Cointreau Tart with Rosemary Gelato and Cranberry Compote
Orange Blossom Honey Syrup
makes 1 large tart — serves 6 to 8
For the dough
1 1/4 cups unbleached white flour
1/4 cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons organic sugar
pinch sea salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold, unsalted butter – cut in 1″ chunks
3 tablespoons cold milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
For the filling
2 large eggs
pinch sea salt
1/2 cup organic sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup Cointreau
1/4 teaspoon very finely grated orange zest (use microplane grater)
1 1/2 cups butternut squash purée (click on link for recipe)
For the cranberry compote
6oz fresh cranberries (about 1 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup organic sugar
For the orange blossom honey syrup
1/3 cup orange blossom honey
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 recipe Rosemary Gelato with Crème Fraîche (click on link for recipe)
powdered sugar as garnish
tiny rosemary sprigs as garnish
9″ x 9″ square tart mold with removable bottom (or 10″ round tart mold with removable bottom) – lightly buttered
extra flour for rolling the dough
butter to brush the mold
Step 1: In the bowl of a food processor, place the flour, pine nuts, sugar and salt. Process at high speed for 30 seconds, until the nuts are finely chopped. Add the chunks of butter and pulse until crumbly. In a small bowl mix the milk and vanilla. Drizzle on the crumbly mixture and pulse until the dough comes together in a ball. Scrape dough from the bowl, gather into a ball and shape into a 4” x 4” smooth square (with no cracks on the sides). Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes until it is cold, but still a bit soft if you press your finger in it.
Step 2: Put the eggs, salt and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer. Whip at high speed until the mixture is pale and ribbony, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the cream, Cointreau, orange zest and butternut squash purée. Continue whipping at low speed until well incorporated. Set aside.
Step 3: Preheat oven to 325°F. Unwrap the dough and set it on a heavily floured surface. Sprinkle dough with a little more flour and roll it out to a 12″ x 12″ square. Gently lift the dough off the counter by sliding your hands flat under it and set it over the tart mold. Press dough lightly against the sides. Trim the excess dough with a sharp knife. Set the mold on a baking sheet. Line dough with aluminum foil and press carefully but firmly against the sides. Bake for 20 minutes until very pale yellow at the edges. Remove from oven, let cool for 10 minutes, then remove the aluminum foil.
Step 4: Increase oven temperature to 350ºF. Pour the squash mixture in the pre-baked tart shell. Bake for about 40 minutes until golden and slightly puffed up. Remove from oven and let cool to room temperature in its mold.
Step 5: While the tart is baking, prepare the cranberry compote. Place the cranberries and sugar in a medium heavy-bottom saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat. The sugar will melt and the cranberries will start releasing their juices. Once boiling, reduce heat to medium and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes until the cranberries start to blister and the juices thicken. Transfer to a bowl to cool to room temperature.
Step 6: When ready to assemble the dessert, place the honey and lemon juice in a small pan and heat over medium heat until honey becomes liquidy, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat and keep in the pan.
Step 7: Unmold the tart and dust with the powdered sugar. Cut tart in 6 to 8 even rectangles. Place each slice in the center of a dessert plate. Place a small scoop of the Rosemary Gelato next to it and a spoonful of the cranberry compote. Drizzle with the honey syrup, garnish with a rosemary sprig and serve immediately.
Cook’s note 1: The tart will keep for 12 hours at room temperature and is best eaten the day it is made. If you need to refrigerate it, make sure to bring it back to room temperature for 1 hour before serving. Refrigeration will make the crust a bit soggy.
Cook’s note 2: The cranberry compote can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Food Processor Tart Dough

In the bowl of a food processor, place the flour, pine nuts, sugar and salt. Process at high speed for 30 seconds, until the nuts are finely chopped.

Add the chunks of butter, making sure they do not touch.

Pulse holding down the button in 3-second intervals until mixture is crumbly.

In a small bowl mix the milk and vanilla. Drizzle on the crumbly mixture, making sure to drizzle it evenly all around. If you dump the whole thing in one spot your dough will not form properly and you’ll have to start all over… (And I’m sure you don’t want that!)

Pulse holding down the button in 3-second intervals until the dough comes together in a ball.

Scrape the dough from the bowl, gather into a ball and shape into a 4” x 4” smooth square (with no cracks on the sides). The trick here is to work quickly so the warmth from your hands doesn’t warm up the dough too much.

Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes until dough is cold, but still a bit soft if you press your finger in it.

Brush the bottom and sides of the mold with a little melted butter.

Sprinkle flour on a work surface or counter — there must be no bare spots. Cover a surface of about 14″ x 14″.

Unwrap the dough and set it on the floured surface. Sprinkle dough with a little more flour.

Roll it up-and-down twice, using light pressure on the rolling pin. (You’re not making pizza!)

Then roll it side-to-side twice… Continue rolling the dough alternating up-and-down and side-to-side until it is about 12″ x 12″ square. If cracks form at the edges, just press the dough back together with the tips of your fingers. Work as quickly as you can so that the dough doesn’t warm up too much, otherwise it’ll be very hard to lift it and place it in the mold without it tearing.

Roll out the dough so it is about 1 to 2″ larger on all sides than your mold.

Gently lift the dough off the counter by sliding your hands flat under it and set it over the tart mold (that’s when you’ll know if you floured your surface enough and if your dough was cold enough).

Press dough lightly against the sides.

Trim the excess dough with a sharp knife.

Line dough with aluminum foil and press carefully but firmly against the bottom and sides. The aluminum foil will keep the sides from shrinking as they bake. So make sure it is well placed around the sides and especially at the corners.

Place tart mold on a baking sheet or jellyroll pan and bake for 20 minutes until very pale yellow at the edges.

Remove from oven, let cool for 10 minutes, then remove the aluminum foil.
© 2009 viviane bauquet farre – food & style NY LLC







































